TIPM Test/Bypass Cable (Micro2 Fuses)
Please verify your vehicle has micro2 fuses before purchasing this cable type. See our vehicle chart if you're unsure. In most cases, your vehicle must be 2013 or newer to use micro2 fuses. 2013+ Dodge Ram and 2014+ Jeep Grand Cherokees are the most common vehicles used with this cable type. Our TIPM test/bypass cables are an inexpensive solution to test and bypass faulty fuel pump relay problems. Fuel pump relays are soldered to a circuit board located deep inside your fuse box, so they are very difficult to access and change. Our cables work by providing power to the fuel pump from an alternate power source (the rear 20A power outliet circuit F90/F91), which permits the vehicle to start when a defective fuel pump relay is present. Users simply need to plug their cable into two circuits and optionally attach an alligator clip to chassis ground. The onboard LED on our Standard Cable always lights if the fuel pump is powered up. Our cables also permit the fuel pump to be powered on when the vehicle is off, which often allows you to narrow down the problem to the TIPM by eliminating the fuel pump as a problem area. But the most common use of this cable is to bypass the problem and continue driving as you normally would, without spending $1000+ on a new TIPM from your dealer.
See our vehicle chart. This cable containing micro2 fuses works on the TIPM style fuse box shown throughout this page. 2013-2018 Dodge Rams and 2014-? Jeep Grand Cherokees are the most common vehicles using this cable at the moment. Vehicles with the same style fuse box as shown on this page will work. Other fuse boxes and vehicles that utilize micro2 style fuses may work as well.
- Bypasses a bad fuel pump relay, allowing most vehicles that will not start to operate again. It works for vehicles that won't start (fuel pump relay won't engage) or those that power the fuel pump when the vehicle is off (fuel pump stuck on). This arrangement is a temporary solution, due to the limitations listed below, although some customers report using the cable for 3+ years.
- Checks fuel pump functionality. Service departments may claim that you have a bad fuel pump when the TIPM is really the problem. This testing/bypass cable will often narrow down your problem to the TIPM fuel pump relay. With the vehicle turned off, our device permits the fuel pump to be powered on (with green LED feedback when using the Standard Cable) and you'll be able to hear it pumping.
- (Standard Cable Only) Checks the TIPM-mounted fuel pump relay for proper functionality with feedback provided via a Light Emitting Diode (LED). This is effective if your vehicle fails to start due to a defective fuel pump relay or the battery drains due to a fuel pump relay that is stuck in the closed position. Green LED feedback can be used as evidence for dealer warranty claims against a defective fuel pump relay.
- Can be used to drain the fuel tank by powering the fuel pump while the vehicle is turned off. This capability is useful if improper fuel was dispensed into the tank or fuel tank modifications are needed.
- Fits under your closed TIPM lid.
- These cables work, period. Read our customer comments from many people who've saved thousands of dollars. If our cable doesn't work on the applicable vehicles listed on this page, we'll refund all your money.
- No special skills are required and you'll have your vehicle running again in less than 5 minutes.
- Can be used in lieu of towing your vehicle to the dealership or mechanic.
- Designed and assembled by an engineer and small business owner. Email support is normally immediate and telephone support is available Monday through Saturday.
- It reduces worry. I carry one in my car at all times.
- All cables are soldered (not crimped), assembled, and tested in our shop.
- A great solution for auto repair shops to diagnose Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/VW no start or dead battery problems.
- Under the terms of a class action lawsuit for faulty fuel pump relays, you may be able to be fully reimbursed for the purchase of this cable.
- It's possible that remote start may not work on some vehicles due to the TIPM disabling the power adapter (F91) used to power the fuel pump relay (F70) in bypass mode. We know this happens with older TIPM-7 style fuse boxes, but we have not tested to see if this limitation occurs on newer TIPMs shown on this page.
- In bypass mode, it is unknown how it will affect safety mechanisms that shut off power to your faulty fuel pump relay during a crash. However, all faulty fuel pump relays are currently capable of becoming stuck in the on position, making this limitation a moot point. More details are available here.
- Although rare, in extremely cold weather or with low battery voltages, some older style TIPMs may disable power to the F91 circuit used by the TIPM cable. More info here. We know this happens with older TIPM-7 style fuse boxes, but we have not tested to see if this limitation occurs on newer TIPMs shown on this page.
What This Cable Can't Do
- This cable won't solve problems that are unrelated to your fuel pump (ie. windshield wipers, starter, lights, etc.).
- If your vehicle won't turn over and the starter will not even attempt to turn the flywheel with a properly charged battery, you likely have other issues that our cable cannot solve. See this link for problems unrelated to fuel pump relays.
Which Cable Do I Need?
The following table will help you determine which type of cable is best. We sell two different types of pre-built cables (Simple and Standard) as well as a kit that you can use to build your own. Our Standard cable adds a LED and the capability to test your fuel pump relay output and it's our most popular cable. LED feedback is nice when troubleshooting a bad fuel pump relay because you can see if/when it's providing power to your fuel pump. The LED acts just like a test light by lighting up when 12 VDC passes through it.
|Cable Version||Fuel Pump Test||Fuel Pump Relay Test||Bypass Mode||Buy This Cable If:|
|Simple (No Feedback LED)||Yes||No||Yes||You just want your car to work again|
|Standard (Includes LED and Ground Wire)||Yes||Yes||Yes||You want your car to work again and know why it failed|
|Build Your Own (Kit)||Yes||No||Yes||You'd like to solder/crimp your own add-a-circuit cables and save money to create a simple cable|
Although many have used this cable as a long-term solution for more than 3+ years, we would prefer that you use it to temporarily bypass a faulty fuel pump relay. The reason for this decision is due to the excessive cost associated with crash testing a vehicle to determine if power is removed to the fuel pump during a crash. More info is here.
Download instructions for our Simple or Standard Test/Bypass Cable (micro2 fuses). A printed color copy of these instructions is included with each order.
Tips From Other Owners
- If your fuel pump relay is stuck on and it drains your battery, simply remove fuse F70 when the vehicle is off. This is easier than disconnecting the battery. Our TIPM test/bypass cable, an external relay, or new TIPM should solve this problem permanently. Other solutions include tapping on the TIPM (fuse box) to disengage the relay.
- Try starting your vehicle in neutral if it won't start at all while in park.
- If your fuel pump relay won't engage and your vehicle won't start, try your remote start. I can't explain why this helps, but many have reported success with this method.
- If using our TIPM test/bypass cable and you don't have a ground lug nearby for the alligator clip, you can connect it to an unpained area on the vehicle chassis (frame).
How To Build Your Own Cable
The design is fairly easy to build and there are two versions, depending on your need. If you have questions, please email us. The simplest version consists of two 20 amp "add a circuit" mini-blade cables soldered together, along with four mini 20 amp (yellow) fuses. Make sure your add a circuit cable can handle 20 amps of current. You might be able to buy them at your local auto parts store, but many people are reporting they can only find the 10 amp version which could cause the wire to overheat. With this design, you're taking power from fuse slot F91 (rear power adapter) and providing it to fuse slot F70 (fuel pump). This version will keep your vehicle on the road by bypassing a defective fuel pump relay, and allow you to test your fuel pump. Be sure to add some heat shrink or electrical tape to the soldered connection between the two add-a-circuit cables. Directions on how to bypass a defective fuel pump relay and test your fuel pump are listed below.
A more complex version adds a 12 VDC green LED and ground wire alligator clip, permitting detailed testing of the fuel pump relay and fuel pump. The wiring diagram below shows how they are soldered together. With this assembly, you'll be able to use the LED to see if the fuel pump relay or fuel pump is bad. Directions on how to test your fuel pump relay, fuel pump, and how to bypass a defective fuel pump relay are listed below.
This design came to life after my 2011 Dodge Durango Crew started to experience starting problems shortly after the warranty expired in 2014. My vehicle would intermittently turn over, but never start due to a lack of fuel. This normally happened in the morning, when the vehicle was cold. Repeated attempts to start the vehicle were successful for awhile, but eventually it wouldn't start at all. After researching the problem via the internet, I found numerous complaints and even a class action lawsuit filed against Dodge for defective TIPMs. Through analysis and testing (I'm an engineer), I was eventually able to determine that my TIPM-mounted fuel pump relay was faulty and repair it myself.
Before the TIPM test/bypass cable was developed, I decided to take my Durango to the dealer and see if they could narrow down the problem since this vehicle has experienced similar problems throughout its life. Since my starting problem was intermittent (most failures occur when the car has been sitting for awhile), I knew it might be difficult to get it to fail at the dealership. All day long, the vehicle started up properly at the service department and I was told there was no problem. As luck would have it, the vehicle failed to start just as I tried to leave the dealership and I was able to prove there was indeed a problem. Further investigation by the dealer narrowed it down to a TIPM or fuel pump. Since my Durango was out of warranty, I was told a new TIPM was around $1100 (assuming that was indeed the problem). It was only a few months out of warranty, which didn't make me very happy. After several phone calls with Dodge to complain (800-992-1977), I was offered $500 toward a new TIPM, which left me paying at least $600 out of pocket. So I decided it was time to tear the TIPM apart and solve the problem myself.
This particular TIPM is not designed to be serviced by Dodge, let alone a car owner like myself. It is not made to come apart easy and special tools and skills are required to disassemble it without causing damage. After spending hours getting it broken down to the circuit board level where I could identify the fuel pump relay, I found the contacts contained large amounts of carbon deposits (see image) and a weak spring, thereby causing occasional situations where the relay failed to power the fuel pump. This observation was later verified by my TIPM bypass/testing device, which earlier in the day was able to show via an LED that the fuel pump relay clicked on and off even when I was able to start the vehicle.
After testing the relay with the application of 12 VDC and a multimeter for continuity, I determined that it was indeed the problem. It's amazing how much pain a $9.00 relay can cause. We've also seen countless fuel pump relays that are welded closed, which continue to pump fuel until the battery is dead (long after the vehicle is turned off). Replacement relays were difficult to find and the only version that matched would have taken around a month to arrive from China, but I was eventually able to find a suitable domestic replacement. Until the part arrived, I still needed to drive my Durango. So, analyzing the inner workings of the TIPM allowed me to create a special testing/bypass device that was capable of testing my fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and bypassing the defective fuel pump relay so I could stay on the road until I could repair the TIPM with a new fuel pump relay. All it takes is a connection of two 20A add-a-circuit cables in your TIPM fusebox. I was able to craft this fix by studying TIPM wiring diagrams along with hours of testing. I felt this wire assembly could be helpful to others, so I decided to release my design for anyone to build their own. After a single post on a Dodge forum, I was quickly inundated with phone calls and orders for this cable assembly. We now build TIPM cables with countless emails from happy customers keeping us going. No special skills are required to use this cable and you can diagnose your problem in less than 5 minutes. After your purchase, if you decide to upgrade to a TIPM repair or TIPM Plug-In Relay System as a long-term solution, contact us for discounts up the full cost of the cable.
How To Test The LED and Ground Connection (Standard Cable Only)
- A proper ground connection and functioning green LED is critical for accurate testing.
- Turn vehicle off and open your hood.
- Connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection. Chassis ground is another name for the bare metal of the vehicle's frame.
- Remove the existing fuse in your F90/F91 slot. Verify that F90/F91 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert one end of the test/bypass cable into the F90 fuse slot. Ensure the opposite end of the cable doesn't touch anything.
- The green LED should light up. If not lit, confirm a proper alligator clip ground connection to bare metal.
NOTE: You can also test the LED using a 9 VDC battery. Attach the alligator clip to (-) and any cable terminal to (+).
How To Test Your Fuel Pump Relay (Standard Cable Only
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 30A fuel pump fuse F70. Verify that F70 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the F70 slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below.
- Connect the alligator to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection. DO NOT connect the alligator clip to the positive 12 VDC terminal hex nut located in the upper left corner of your TIPM.
- If the green LED immediately lights up, your fuel pump relay is stuck in the "on" position and will eventually drain your battery. You can likely hear the fuel pump motor (located near your gas tank) if in a quiet environment. Use your cable in bypass mode (see section #4 below) to keep your vehicle on the road and prevent battery drainage. Just make sure to remove the lower 20A fuse on the F70 end of the cable, per the instructions.
- If the green LED is not lit, which is normal, have someone attempt to start your vehicle. Watch the green LED.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED remains continuously lit, everything is functioning properly at this point in time. Fuel pump relays fail intermittently, so you may want to test again at a time of day that failure is common.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED flickers on and off, your fuel pump relay is going bad. My vehicle experienced this type of flickering on and off for approximately 30-60 seconds when first started, but the fuel pump was still able to deliver enough fuel to not starve the engine. After several minutes, the fuel pump relay would work appropriately and the green LED would remain lit. History shows this problem will become worse. You're likely in the early stages of fuel pump relay failure.
- If the vehicle does not start and the green LED never lights up, your fuel pump relay is faulty. See the fuel pump relay bypass section below to start your vehicle.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED is not illuminated, make sure you've connected the alligator clip to chassis ground.
How To Test Your Fuel Pump (Simple or Standard Cables)
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 30A fuel pump fuse F70. Verify that F70 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the F70 slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below if using a Standard Cable with LED.
- Remove the existing fuse in F91/F90. Verify that F91/F90 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert the free end of your test/bypass cable into F90. The F91/F90 fuse slots consist of three terminals (the F90 terminals closest to the lid hinge provide 12VDC power when the vehicle is on or off).
- If your fuel pump is working properly, you'll hear the fuel pump motor (located near your gas tank) if in a quiet environment.
- (Standard Cables only) Connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection and you should see the green LED light up, indicating that 12 VDC is being provided to the fuel pump. If you see the green LED but don't hear the fuel pump, you may have a bad fuel pump. If you do NOT see a green LED, but do hear the fuel pump, you likely need to check your alligator clip ground connection.
How To Bypass A Defective Fuel Pump Relay And Stay On The Road (Simple or Standard Cables)
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 30A fuel pump fuse F70. Verify that F70 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the F70 slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below if using a Standard Cable with LED.
- Remove the existing fuse in F91/F90. Verify that F91/F90 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert the free end of your test/bypass cable into F91. The F91/F90 fuse slots consist of three terminals (the F91 terminals farthest from the lid hinge provide 12VDC power ONLY when the key is on). This connection provides alternate power directly to the fuel pump, thereby bypassing a defective fuel pump relay.
- (Standard Cables only) Optionally connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground.
- Start vehicle.
- (Standard Cables only) You'll see the green LED light up, indicating that alternate power from the power adapter (cigarette lighter) circuit is now powering your fuel pump if the original faulty fuel pump relay cannot. Disconnect the alligator clip and make sure it does not come into contact with the positive terminal toward the upper left of the fuse box. A small piece of electrical tape placed over it will help keep it safe.
- You can start, drive, and turn off your vehicle as you normally do. Your test/bypass cable is intended as a temporary solution until you can implement a permanent fix. Due to the large number of vehicle types with fuel pump relay problems, it is unknown if any auto shut down features are affected during a crash. Use this cable in bypass mode at your own risk.
- You can continue to plug low power devices (cell phone, iPad, etc.) into the cigarette lighter, but avoid high current devices.
- If you experience problems starting your vehicle, try cycling the key from OFF to ACC to RUN and then put your foot on the brake and start the vehicle. Some TIPMs appear to conserve power by disabling the F91 circuit during the starting process. Less than 1% have reported this issue while in bypass mode. Bypass mode powers your fuel pump in ACC and RUN modes only, so your fuel pump will be off when the vehicle is turned off. Remote start may not work with this cable.
- If your fuel pump relay has been or becomes stuck in the ON position when the vehicle is off, which can drain your car battery, please remove the lower 20A fuse on the F70 end of the cable. This action will completely disconnect the faulty fuel pump relay from all active circuitry and prevent future battery drainage. Alternate bypass power will still be permitted to travel from the F91 fuse slot through the cable to F70 and to your fuel pump. Then start the vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable, especially near the fuses.
Frequently Asked Questions
1) Is it a problem if my fuel pump relay delivers 12 VDC while the TIPM bypass cable delivers 12 VDC from the rear power adapter circuit at the same time?
Answer: No. As long as one of them delivers 12 VDC to the fuel pump, your car should start. If both provide 12 VDC, your fuel pump still sees 12 VDC and it pumps as expected. If you'd prefer to disconnect the TIPM-mounted fuel pump relay and rely solely on the TIPM bypass cable to provide 12 VDC, then remove the lower fuse on the TIPM bypass cable that is connected to F70 (this is actually how you combat a fuel pump relay that is stuck in the ON position).
2) How long can I drive with the cable? Is it a permanent solution?
Answer: Many people have used our cables for extended periods of time (2-3 years), but we prefer to list it as a temporary solution due to the limitations listed above. Our cables mainly serve as testing tools to determine TIPM problems, but thousands of people use them to stay on the road. Although we do have other more permanent solutions for a different style fusebox and fuse type, we have not yet developed these products or services for the micro2 fuse version.
3) Will your cable leave a closed circuit with constant 12 VDC power to the fuel pump when the vehicle is off?
Answer: No. When using our bypass cable, power is only delivered to the fuel pump when in ACC mode or while the vehicle is running. Your fuel pump will not be powered on when the vehicle is turned off. However, if your faulty old relay is stuck on, you must remove the lower 20 amp fuse on the F70 end of our cable in order to completely disconnect it from the fuel pump circuit.
4) What percentage of people have a no start condition with their fuel pump relay compared to those who have their fuel pump stuck on when the vehicle is off?
Answer: Based on the thousands of phone calls we've received since August 2014, we would guess that 65% have a fuel pump relay that won't engage (no start), 20% have a fuel pump relay that is stuck on (draining their battery), and 15% have a combination of both. It's not uncommon for relay failures to switch from one failure mode to another. Some people also have a "stalling while driving" issue, although it's rare.
5) My battery keeps draining. How can I temporarily fix my fuel pump relay "stuck on" situation without using your TIPM cable?
Answer: Turn the vehicle off, go the rear near the fuel tank and listen for pumping noises to see if fuel pump is still on. If so, remove fuse F70 (labeled fuel pump) only when your vehicle is off which will prevent power being delivered to the fuel pump. You can also install our bypass cable and remove the lower fuse on the F70 end per the above instructions.
6) Is the TIPM bypass cable still effective if the external fuel pump relay recall has been added?
Answer: Although no recalls have been issued for vehicles with micro2 fuse slots in their TIPM and the likelihood of having an external relay is quite small, it's worth noting that our TIPM test/bypass cables will not normally work if any type of external relay has been installed in the vehicle. Most external relay installations involve cutting numerous fuel pump wires leading in/out of the TIPM, thereby disconnecting the existing fuel pump relay circuit from the fuel pump.
7) Are any safety mechanisms affected by faulty fuel pump relays or bypass cables?
Answer: If the vehicle shuts off power to all 12 VDC circuits on the TIPM during a crash (specifically F91), then all original safety mechanisms should work properly. However, it is unknown how it will affect any safety mechanisms that shut off power to your faulty fuel pump relay only because we have not crash tested a vehicle to study it. Modern vehicles remove power to the fuel pump via the fuel pump relay in order to prevent feeding fires. This situation would require a crash coupled with a fuel line breach and fire. Keep in mind that all faulty fuel pump relays currently have the capability to be stuck in the "on" position, which is a safety issue to begin with. Many TIPMs have arrived in our shop with fuel pump relays that are stuck on, which would cause a fuel pump to remain on during a crash. Every vehicle with a faulty fuel pump relay is currently a safety hazard and your vehicle manufacturer isn't doing anything about it, except for 2011-2013 Dodge Durangos and Jeep Grand Cherokees per the fuel pump relay recall.
8) In bypass mode, my car only starts on the second attempt or won't start in cold weather. Is this normal?
Answer: It's rare, but it's possible that some TIPMs won't power on the F91 circuit during the starting process. We have seen this on other style TIPMs, but none have been reported on the style of TIPM shown on this web page. We've performed some testing/research to determine that it's likely attributable to the TIPM cutting off all unnecessary power draw during the starting process in cold weather or with lower battery voltages. With no power to F91 during the engine cranking process, the TIPM cable can't deliver power to the fuel pump via the F70 fuse slot. There are two workarounds: (1) Cycle your key or start button to ACC and RUN mode, then start the vehicle; (2) In extreme cold weather, move the TIPM cable from F91 to F90. Start the vehicle and then move the cable back to the left slots of F91. Keep in mind that plugging into F90 forces the fuel pump to remain on all the time, so you'll need to return it to F91 while the vehicle is running or after driving. This isn't an issue with our cable, rather it's how the TIPM handles cold weather starting.
Low battery voltages may be due to your faulty relay being "stuck on", which powers your fuel pump when the vehicle is off until it partially or completely drains your battery. It's complicated, but some faulty fuel relays fail in different ways. They may fail early on by simply not allowing power to pass through the F70 fuse and on to the fuel pump. Then they can switch to being "stuck on", which keeps your fuel pump running when the vehicle is off. You'll need to remove the lower yellow 20 amp fuse on the F70 end of our cable to completely disconnect the faulty relay from the fuel pump circuit and prevent battery drainage. The next time you try to start it and it fails, hook up the alligator clip to ground and watch the green light if you have the LED version of our cable. If the green light comes on when you turn the key to ACC, but then goes out only during the starter cranking process, your battery voltage is likely low. Charge your battery and/or make sure the lower fuse on the F70 end of our cable is removed. If your fuel pump is receiving power during the starting process but still fails to start, you might: (1) Have a faulty fuel pump (please use our cable to test your fuel pump), (2) Have no gas in the vehicle, or (3) Have a faulty crankshaft sensor or other problem that is outside of our knowledge base. Keep in mind that our TIPM cables have always been advertised as temporary solutions. Permanent solutions are available through us for some fuse and fusebox types, and we offer great discounts to those who've purchased our TIPM cables.
9) With the cable installed in the F91 slot, does the rear power adapter work and can my kids use it to power their hand held games or cell phone?
Answer: Yes. If you keep both fuses on the F91 end of the cable, then you can use it for other things that don't draw too much power (ie. cell phone, ipad, etc.). Fuel pumps normally consume around 8-9 of the 20 amps on the circuit.
10) Why won't your cable work on my vehicle? What does the typical fuel pump circuit look like that permits the bypass/test cable to work?
Answer: Most vehicles will allow our TIPM bypass/test cable to work, but we have not been able to test every vehicle. For the cable to work properly, the order of components must be: +12 VDC ---> Fuel Pump Relay ---> Fuse Slot ---> Fuel Pump. If the fuel pump relay is not located before the fuse slot, as is the case with many 2010 and older Dodge Ram vehicles, our TIPM bypass/test cable won't work. If your test light or multimeter can detect 12 VDC on the fuel pump fuse slot when the vehicle is off, chances are our TIPM bypass/test cables won't work as your fuel relay comes after the fuse slot (the only exception being a "stuck on" fuel relay that is often remedied with a swift smack to the side of the TIPM). Since a fuel pump relay failure often means no power at the fuse or pump when the vehicle is starting or running, the arrangement of the circuit shown below benefits us since we can inject +12 VDC power via a TIPM test/bypass cable into the 20 amp fuse slot to power the fuel pump. If you were to swap the relay and fuse positions, as was done on many 2010 and older Dodge Rams, our TIPM test/bypass cable becomes ineffective. For details, see our wiring diagrams section.
11) Why does my remote start still work after installing the TIPM cable? Why is remote start listed as a limitation of the TIPM cable?
Answer: It's complicated, but your remote start may still work if you still have the lower fuse installed on the F70 end of our cable. If your old faulty relay is working intermittently, remote start will still allow the vehicle to start when the relay is having a good day. By removing the lower fuse, which is needed in case the old faulty relay gets "stuck on" and it drains your battery, it will completely disconnect the relay from the fuel pump circuit - killing any remote start capabilities. Remote start is listed as a limitation because the TIPM might remove power to the F91 circuit and other unnecessary circuits during the starting process. It devotes the extra power solely to the starting process, and that includes the bad relay. When bad relays are powered with higher voltages voltage, they often work better. Since the F91 circuit has no power during remote start (and in some cases, when the battery voltage is low), our TIPM cable may not receive power. This isn't a TIPM cable issue - it's simply the way the TIPM deals with power.
12) My 2012 Caravan is having problems starting, sometimes a grinding sound and sometimes it starts fine. Would the fuel pump relay cause this issue?
Answer: Yes, it's possible.....and I'll explain why. Fuel pump relays often fail by clicking on and off very fast. Sometimes they click on fast enough to stay running and sometimes not. When your vehicle detects that is has "started", it disengages the starter solenoid. If the fuel relay is still clicking on/off just enough to keep it running, but not fast enough for to detect the vehicle is running, the solenoid can stay engaged in the flywheel, creating the grinding sound. It sounds like this because it is indeed slowly grinding the teeth off your flywheel and solenoid.
13) My car still won't start with the TIPM test/bypass cable installed. What might cause this?
Answer: The following are possible causes for this situation while using our cable:
- TIPM test/bypass cable isn't hooked up to the proper fuse slots. It must be connected between F70 and F91.
- Check cable fuses. Some people accidentally touch the cable to ground while plugged in to the TIPM, which may blow a fuse.
- Make sure the top fuses on each end of our TIPM test/bypass cable are installed. Top fuses permit power to flow from one end of the cable (F91) to the other (F70). Bottom fuses allow the original fuse slot to function normally.
- Have you checked your fuel pump using the TIPM test/bypass cable to see if it's working? A fuel pump pressure test is something else to keep in mind if all else fails.
- An obvious question, but I have to ask.......do you have gas in the vehicle? Is your fuel gauge working properly?
- It's quite rare, but sometimes the TIPM can kill power to the F91 slot during the engine cranking process. This may happen in cold weather or with car batteries that have been drained recently. Temporarily move the F91 end of our cable to F90, which provide full-time power to the fuel pump and try to start the vehicle. Then, while the vehicle is running, quickly move the cable back to F91, allowing your vehicle to charge the battery to sufficient levels. If the vehicle still won’t start with the cable providing full time power from the F91 slot, you likely have a problem beyond the fuel pump and fuel pump relay.
- Verify an external relay is not installed, as our cables are incompatible with them. Change the external relay if present.
- Check/replace your camshaft and/or crankshaft sensors. There are dozens of things that can prevent a vehicle from starting, beyond the fuel pump relay issue that our cable was designed to solve.
- Remember, our cables only allow power to pass from one end to the other. If your TIPM won’t provide power to the cable, no power will be available to the fuel pump.
14) My vehicle is experiencing problems since installing the cable. Is the cable at fault?
Answer: No. With thousands of cables in use worldwide, we know how our cables interact with TIPMs. Our TIPM bypass/test cables are nothing more than jumper cables that permit electricity to move between two points. Instead of using the electricity flowing through a faulty fuel pump relay to power your fuel pump, we use electricity from another source (the rear power adapter). Your faulty fuel pump relay and the rear power adapter both use the same 12 VDC source inside the TIPM. When using the cable, your rear power adapter doesn't know or care that it's actually powering the fuel pump instead of a cell phone or iPad. Our TIPM bypass/test cables won't cause any warning lights, check engine lights, alternator, starter, or air conditioning problems. Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/VW vehicles and their TIPMs are well known for electrical problems in each of these items.
15) Why couldn't my dealer or mechanic figure out that the fuel pump relay was faulty?
Answer: It's VERY common for dealers or mechanics to improperly diagnose fuel pump relay problems. The most common misdiagnosis is a faulty fuel pump, which will cost you around $600. Reasons for improperly diagnosing fuel pump relay problems include: Relay failures are often intermittent, selling you a TIPM at $1200 is more profitable, faulty relays won't normally result in vehicle faults/codes, many people don't understand vehicle electrical systems, TIPMs are not a user or dealer serviceable part (i.e. they're not allowed to work on the parts inside), and they don't know how to test fuel pump relays. Fortunately, fuel pump relays are our specialty and we can often diagnose problems over the phone or via email.
16) Nothing happens when I turn the key. Is the cable at fault?
Answer: If you're turning the key and nothing happens, then you likely have a starter issue, dead battery, bad alternator, or wiring problem. This type of problem is not related to the fuel pump relay, nor does it have anything to with our cable. Our cable simply delivers power to the fuel pump. If your vehicle is unable to power the starter to rotate the flywheel, then you'll want to focus on the solutions listed below.
Corroded battery terminals can cause the inability for the battery to deliver 12 VDC to the starter. A faulty alternator can prevent the battery from being charged properly, resulting in a dead battery. Note that many 2011 vehicles were recalled for bad alternators. You may want to check to see if yours was on the recall list. Check your starter plug-in relay that is locate next to your fuses on top of the TIPM. Also, modern TIPMs control the ability of the alternator to deliver current to charge the battery when driving. Some of our customers had to replace their TIPM with a used TIPM.
17) Will it still work if my vehicle doesn't have a rear cigarette lighter?
Answer: Yes. Regardless of the presence of a rear cigarette lighter (power adapter) for the F90/F91 circuit used by the cable, the infrastructure in the TIPM fuse box is still there to accommodate our cable. This situation mainly applies to 2013 and newer Dodge Ram owners. The cable still works perfectly on these vehicles with the F90/91 slot providing either full-time or key-on power, as desired, depending on the cable configuration you desire.
18) My remote start isn't working or the vehicle shuts down after a few seconds when using remote start. What causes this?
Answer: Most remote start issues are the result of the vehicle disabling remote start capabilities before or after the starting process. Vehicles will disable remote start if all of the following conditions are not met:
- Check engine light not illuminated
- Shift lever in PARK
- Doors closed
- Hood closed
- HAZARD switch off
- BRAKE switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed)
- Ignition key removed from ignition switch
- Battery at an acceptable charge level
- Remote keyless entry PANIC button not pressed
- Fuel meets minimum requirement
The engine can be started two consecutive times (two 15-minute cycles) with the remote keyless entry transmitter. However, the ignition switch must be cycled to the ON/RUN position before you can repeat the start sequence for a third cycle.
Below are customer comments sent via email. Feel free to check out all the impartial positive comments on our YouTube video.
-Had to drop a line to tell you I am so pleased I found your site on the internet concerning my 2011 Dodge Ram. You have saved me a lot of time and money that the dealers were ready to take from me. Your instructions and video were precise and to the point. I bought the cable with the LED and installed semi-permatently until I can order your Plug-in Fuel Pump Power Bypass System for a permanent fix. Thanks again for getting me back on the road. -January 24, 2018
-I just wanted to say thank you for your awesome, simple product! Our Grand Caravan started getting the dreaded TIPM issue. My wife was stranded numerous times last week with a car that wouldn't start. Thanks to your product, the car starts up Everytime now. Will keep this plugged up until we can get the problem fixed permanently. -December 3, 2017
- JUST A NOTE GOT THE CABLE. VAN STARTED NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. GREAT SAVINGS. DEALER WANTED NEW PUMP & NEW COMPUTER BOX. THANKS AGAIN. -December 1, 2017
- Thanks for your Youtube video and bypass cable with LED. My 2011 Ram 1500 has the faulty fuel pump relay. Fortunately, mine died in my driveway. It gave no indication it was about to go out. It would crank, but would not start. Had the problem diagnosed and bypassed in less than 10 minutes. I spoke with the local Chrysler dealer. They wanted $120 to diagnose the problem, $978 for a new TIPM and was told it would require 3 hours labor!! As soon as I had the bypass cable installed, it started with no hesitation. I’ve referred family members to your website so they can order a bypass cable for their Chrysler vehicles with similar TIPMs just in case they encounter the same problem. It’s an inexpensive insurance policy. You saved me a bunch. Thanks again! -October 22, 2017. Vertical Visions comment: We can remove and install a new TIPM in your vehicle in less than 10 minutes.
- I want to give you a big thank you for providing your information and intelligence!! I made my own tipm bypass from your wiring diagram and it worked! Thank you again from the bottom of my heart for saving me at least 1000 dollars! Sincerely, a father of 3 school age kids, and one worried wife! -September 28, 2017
-I just would like to say thank you. I am an asst. chief from a volunteer fire department and I use my vehical a lot to answer calls. I've been going crazy with the no start issues and never know if I am going to be able to start the truck to get to the scene on a timely fashion. Your bypass works great and helped me figure out what my problem is. I drive a 2011 ram 1500. So once again I would like to thank you so much. -August 24, 2017
-I just received your test/bypass cable in the mail. I ordered it after googling for a day or two trying to diagnose (with no luck) my wife’s 2011 grand caravan. Turned out to be the fuel pump relay, & I was able to diagnose it within a matter of minutes. Thank you for sharing this tool with the rest of us, it truly is awesome! -August 15, 2017
-You are a genius! You are a saint! Just installed the cable, my van is now purring in the drive way after sitting dead for a week. You don't know how thankful I am for you for figuring this out and making a product that helps so many of us out. We just spent $5k on a transmission. The thought of another $1k+ to fix this problem was almost too much to bear. As soon as I'm done celebrating, I'll order the circuit board. -August 7, 2017
-Just like to say you THANK YOU, you got me back on the road. Fast response, fast processing, the whole works. Thanks again. -August 3, 2017
-After replacing spark plugs and wires and installing a brand new file pump my truck still wouldn't start, and when it did it threw codes for multiple misfires. Your test/bypass cable was my last option before i threw in the towel and took it in, which i really could not afford. Needless to say, the cable worked. She started right up after install and is running great. At 144239 miles I'm not sorry i replaced the plugs and pump, but thank you for stepping in with a solution when Chrysler refuses to act honorably towards it's loyal customers. -August 1, 2017
-I installed the new part on my wife's 2011 Chrysler T&C and your instructions were perfect. Thanks for engineering such a great product, starts every time. -June 30, 2017
-I can not begin to thank you enough for this incredible product. I brought my car (2011 Dodge Grand Caravan) to my mechanic last week and he told me I needed a fuel pump. I had him replace it at $675. My car still wasn’t starting, so it was then towed to a Dodge dealership where I paid $225 in diagnostics. I was told my TIPM needed to be replaced at an additional cost of $1100. I was floored, and broke at this point, so I had my car towed home. I just bought this car back in March, and it is the only car I own that my family of 6 will fit in. I was planning on driving to Florida from Boston to visit my dad in July and now my vacation was all but cancelled. I called my dad to break the news, and he told me to call a friend of ours and tell him about the car to see if he knew anyone else who could fix it cheaper. After explaining the situation to my friend, he emailed me about an hour later with your video. I ordered the part immediately and got it first thing this morning in my mail. It worked. Like a charm. My only regret is not seeing this video before spending all this money needlessly on a fuel pump and a diagnostic. You not only saved me $1100, but this simple yet amazing part saved a family vacation, which not only includes me and my kids, but also two cousins and a friend who already purchased plane tickets to meet us in Florida. I am a stay at home mother of 4 and my husband is in sales and drives for Uber for extra money. Every single penny in this house counts. I have to say, that $32 I spent on the part and shipping was some of the best money I have ever spent in my life. I honestly can not thank you enough for not only posting that video, but giving consumers a way to not be held over a barrel by mechanics and dealerships. You are a hero in our house. -June 3, 2017
-Just ordered this to keep in glove box for my wife's 2014 Town and Country, as a precaution, since this is such a common failure and she travels a lot. I ordered it on a Saturday late morning, around 11AM, expecting it would not ship until Monday, and see it maybe Wednesday. Very surprised when it was in my hand Monday! I am an owner of an auto repair shop, so I am used to diagnosing problems, and using expensive tools/equipment, and this is as simple as it gets, and appears well made. I could have made it myself, but for the little cost, convenience, and knowing that if my wife is stranded, she will have clear instructions, AND a phone number to reach an actual person familiar with THIS REPAIR, to help. That means a lot Thank you. -May 22, 2017
-Hey buddy, it took me about 90 seconds to install the wire and I have driven it all day with not a single problem. Thank you for saving me $1000! -January 03, 2017
-I wanted to thank you again for the cable I purchased from you. It worked just as advertised and has really solved our problem. I actually showed your bypass cable to a mechanic and they were very impressed by it. They even took pictures so they could reference it in the future. Thankfully because of your invention we were able to make our holiday travel and enjoy Christmas with my family! -December 29, 2016
-You are the man!! I had the failed relay problem and made up your cable, it works GREAT!! Thank you so much. From one Engineer to another - you have my respect and you are an honorable man! -December 3, 2016
-Just wanted to write a quick thank you!! I ordered my relay bypass cable late Friday night, had it by Monday. My 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan has been giving me trouble for weeks. My mechanic wouldn't listen to me when I was reading him the information on your site. After insisting I replace the fuel pump he was dumbfounded when I called him the next day stranded on the side of the road. I'm a single mom, working 2 jobs so this van is a necessity. A million times thank you!! I hope you and your family have a very blessed holiday season. -November 30, 2016
-Thank you for the quick delivery! Just watched the video as I was testing/bypassing the relay. Took me all of 15 minutes. I have a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan that would crank but not start. It was the relay that was the problem. Using the bypass and it works like a charm now. I do PI work and I am often in areas where I couldn't afford to be stranded, if you know what I mean. Well worth the money for peace of mind! -November 30, 2016
-My 2011 Grand Caravan is a "Happy Car" now that I used your bypass cable. The fuel pump relay was defective for sure, just as I expected. Thank you for saving me hundreds of dollars on a new TIPM, not to mention tow bill and wasted time. You are a BLESSING, my friend. -November 23, 2016
-HI Jason, I can't even begin to tell you how happy and excited I am. I live mostly payday to payday and dreaded the thought of even having to put my 2011 Ram 1500 in the shop. I Googled my problems with my truck and came upon your ad that read almost word for word what my issues were. I took a chance and ordered the bypass cable. My friend put it on in less than a minute and my truck started right up. Thank you for sharing this information and giving an inexpensive option! I am back on the road! -November 17, 2016
-Hi Jason! I received your wire yesterday. Followed the instructions, and my car is working perfectly! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your work and for taking the time to develop this product for us dodge/Chrysler/VW users who experienced this issue. I am grateful! Thanks again! -November 10, 2016
-Can't thank you enough! The TIPM bypass cable worked like a charm and my wife's car is back on the road for the first time in 60 days. We were prepared to drop some good money into the van until we stumbled upon your video. She actually cried when the thing started up.. Thanks again. -October 24, 2016
-Recently ordered your product and was thoroughly satisfied with my purchase. The package arrived on time, the included directions were complete and it took 5 minutes test ,bypass and get my wife's Van back on the road. Saved me almost $500. Great product and good work, you guys are lifesavers. -October 18, 2016
-Just wanted to say thanks... Product works flawlessly!!!! -October 6, 2016
-Hi Jason, part came in mail! Tore it open, read the instructions and installed it. Started up and then again a half hour later! Wow! A mini van that starts! If this continues, I won't know what to do with myself without all the stress every time I get in the car. Thank you for figuring this workaround out and sharing it with the rest of us who were at a loss with the dealership. Will most likely send in the whole unit to you for repair when I figure out a time that I can be without my car for a few weeks. -October 1, 2016
-First of I'm a father of four and my time is precious, but I had to take the time to email you a review. Very fast shipping! Ordered Sunday received Wednesday. Started my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan FIRST TRY! I'm an aircraft mechanic currently working in a transmission factory rebuilding failed transmissions to give an idea of my skill level. Your idea couldn't have been easier, wonderful video as well. I could have just gone to the store and made my own.... but you did a fabulous job, so convenient to just order yours.....and I wanted to support you all. Thanks so much. So convenient, product is exactly as advertised. -September 28, 2016
-Thank you very much for figuring out this bypass cable fix. I have a 2011 Ram 1500 and it slowly started having troubles starting until it finally would start at all. I saw your website and I was sure this was the problem but the wife insisted that I have it towed to a mechanic. Sure enough the Mechanic said I needed a new fuel pump. I told him about the TIPM problem but he insisted it was the fuel pump. I saw on your website that a lot of people had replaced the fuel pump only to discover that the fuel pump was fine. I received your cable, went up to the mechanics shop, got my keys from him and had my truck running in his shop within 10 minutes. He asked me if I needed a job. Lol..-August 28, 2016
-I just wanted to say that you are the man. I'm literally moving across the country tomorrow and this fuel pump relay issue started happening today in my 2011 Chrysler town and country. Short story, I built the cable from your instructions with the help of my electrical engineer father-in-law and problem is solved. Thanks again figuring this out and posting it online. -August 27, 2016
-We received our repair kit for our Chrysler Town and County yesterday. We installed it this morning and the van immediately started. We tried to start it before we put it on and it wouldn't turn over after 6 trys. Thank you for coming up with the this repair solution so that we can decide what we are going to. -August 16, 2016
-Just received and installed the cable on my 2011 Jeep GC and it started right up. Awesome!!! -June 27, 2016
-Jason, [I received] the bypass cable this afternoon and I want to thank you it solved my problem 100% it took longer to unpackage it then it did to take care of the problem. I just want to again thank you you save me money I did not have thanks again. -May 23, 2016
-Your product is a life savior. You can add 2012 Chrysler Town and Country to the tested vehicles. Mine has been working for one month with no issues. -March 5, 2016
-I just wanted to thank you for developing a cable that provides a work around for the TIMP on our 2011 Dodge Caravan. The instructions were clear and the process took less than 15 minutes. The vehicle starts first time every time now and I can't thank you enough. -February 14, 2016
-Would just like to thank you for helping me out. I ordered the standard cable very early yesterday, with express shipping it arrived the next day. Was able to test and determine the fuel pump relay was bad in my wife's 2011 T&C within 2 minutes. Taped off the clip, left the cable in place and the van starts everytime. The remote start even still works because I didn't have the problem of the pump continuously running. This will give me time to determine the next course of action and keep the van on the road. -January 06, 2016
-YOU'RE A GENIUS!!! THANK YOU TIMES A MILLION. With the help of your information on line I was able to troubleshoot my 2011 RAM 1500, start my truck and go home!!! (I was 200 miles from home...) the relay was faulty. THANK YOU!!!! -December 23, 2015
-Got wire this evening. Called you Saturday. Worked like a charm. Thank you very much. Have a merry Christmas and Happy new year. -December 21, 2015
-I received my cable this afternoon. It works great! Thank you for making the product. -December 8, 2015
-Just received your bypass wire for my 11 Ram 1500. Took about 1 minute total install time. That's including shoveling about 5 inches of snow off the truck. Twisted the key and it started right up. Went back into the house and my wife couldn't believe it was that quick of a fix. YOU ROCK!!! Thanks so much for taking the time and energy it took to come up with such an awesome and affordable fix for this problem. -November 24, 2015
-Hi Jason. I just wanted to let you know that my husband installed the relay on my Caravan at the Dodge dealership last evening. The longest part of the installation was him walking back to our other car to get his glasses so he could read the map on the TIPM module. I want to thank you for designing this part and making it available to those willing to do a little research about this defect and finding you. Shame on Chrysler for taking advantage of consumers. Palmer Dodge wanted $520 to do what you helped us do for $30. You are a true American and I am thankful for you. -November 24, 2015
-Thanks so much for your simple but elegant solution to Fiat - Chrysler Corporation's manufacturing nightmare. It took me less than 5 minutes to confirm the fuel pump relay on my wife's 2011 Chrysler Town & Country van was kaput, and to bypass it with your cable. The hardest part of the installation was trying to pull the M25 fuse -- it's so close to the relay cover that I couldn't get the puller on it and had to use my pocket knife. You provided most excellent service. Ordered it Friday @ 0700, you shipped it same day from West Virginia @ 0900, and I had it in my hot little hands in Fayetteville, GA , on Monday @ noon. Just hope Chrysler Corp does the right thing and fixes all the $30,000+ paperweights they've manufactured, but not holding my breath for a quick resolution. Your bypass cable will probably still be on my vehicle when it dies of old age. -November 24, 2015
-I have a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500. It was doing what all the other people described. Trying to start but only cranking. Then it would start, then it would not. I spent about $1000 changing out the fuel pump only for it to do the same thing. I was really aggravated and started looking for answers and stumbled upon your website. After building the relay and installing it correctly it works like a champ. I just wanted to say thank you for saving me from having to pay $1200 for a new TIMP. Hopefully the Lawsuit against Dodge will hold them accountable and they will have to pay for all the defective parts they put out and all the wasted money customers have spent on parts they did not need. In the meantime though your invention will keep me on the road. Thank you so much!!! -November 21, 2015
-Had trouble starting my 2011 dodge ram roughly 2 months ago. Got to the point where I needed a jump to start the truck after sitting off for 1 or more hours. Replaced battery thinking electrical issue was the reason. It ran fine for a day, until the next morning when the truck was completely dead. Hooked up jumper cables once again but I didn't start the truck right away. I heard a slight whine coming from under the back left tire. Turns out my fuel pump was now stuck in the "on" position completely draining the battery. Bought this cable and received in 3 days, took 2 minuties to install, and has completely aliviated any issues with the truck starting!!! Thanks so much for making this cable, have already told my friends with similiar year Dodges to purchase one. Thanks again for making this product!!!! -November 18, 2015
-Thank you. Good to see someone from the region I grew up in making such an impact by finding a solution and sharing it. Had this issue show up on my 2011 Ram 1500 and your instructions were excellent. I tested the relay failure by connecting the fuel pump fuse to constant power and the pump turned on. Cranked the truck and it ran until I disconnected the constant hot. In my case the remote start still functions. You just saved my plans for the Thanksgiving week. -November 15, 2015
-I just wanted to say thank you for your video and website for this fix. My wife has a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee that incurred this issue at 45k miles. I spoke with my mechanic who told me that it sounded like the fuel pump was going bad. After combing through dozens of forums & reading people complaints, I knew to expect that and the TIPM replacement were common "solutions" suggested by mechanics & dealerships. I became frustrated on the lack of known resolutions until I stumbled upon your website. It was a super easy fix and has been running great ever since. Cost me $18&l