TIPM Test/Bypass Cable (Mini-Blade Fuses)
NOTE: This product will not work if you allowed your dealer to cut wires under your TIPM to install an external fuel relay per the 2011-2013 Durango and Grand Cherokee recall. More info.
Our custom TIPM test/bypass cables are an inexpensive solution to test and bypass faulty fuel pump relay problems on many 2007 and newer Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler/VW vehicles. See our applicable vehicle chart below to confirm your vehicle year/make/model. Fuel pump relays are soldered to one of six circuit boards located deep inside your fuse box, so they are very difficult to access and change. Our cables work by providing power to the fuel pump from an alternate power source (the M37 run/start fuse slot), which permits the vehicle to start when a defective fuel pump relay is present. Users simply need to plug their cable into two fuse slots and optionally attach an alligator clip to chassis ground if any testing is desired. The onboard LED on our Standard Cable always lights if the fuel pump is powered on. Our cables also permit the fuel pump to be powered on when the vehicle is off, which often allows you to narrow down the problem to the TIPM by eliminating the fuel pump as the problem. But the most common use of this cable is to bypass the problem and continue driving as you normally would, without spending $1000+ on a new TIPM from your dealer. We invented this cable in 2014 and tens of thousands are in use around the world.
NEW INFO: New Bypass Mode Connection To Resolve Cold Weather Starting Issues
We're now using a configuration that uses the M37 fuse slot in bypass mode, which should resolve low battery voltage or cold weather starting problems that a very small percentage of existing users of this cable may experience in the winter when connecting between the older M7 left slot to M25 method. This is great news and we're exited to share it with everyone.
Applicable Tested Vehicles for TIPM Test/Bypass Cables
See our vehicle chart below for the complete list. This cable type containing mini-blade fuses works on the TIPM-7 style fuse box shown throughout this page. The most common vehicles include the 2011-2013 Dodge Caravan, 2011-2013 Chrysler Town & Country, 2011-2012 Dodge Ram, and 2011-2012 VW Routan. Vehicles with the same style fuse box as shown on this page will work. Other fuse boxes and vehicles that utilize mini-blade style fuses may work as well. It's normal to have fuses and relays in different locations on this style TIPM, depending on your vehicle options and model.
- Bypasses a faulty fuel pump relay, allowing most vehicles that will not start to operate again. It works for vehicles that won't start (fuel pump relay won't engage) or those that power the fuel pump when the vehicle is off and drain your battery (fuel pump stuck on).
- Checks fuel pump functionality. Service departments may claim that you have a bad fuel pump when the TIPM is really the problem. This testing/bypass cable will often narrow down your problem to the TIPM fuel pump relay. With the vehicle turned off, our device permits the fuel pump to be powered on (with green LED feedback when using the Standard Cable) and you'll be able to hear it pumping.
- (Standard Cable Only) Checks the TIPM-mounted fuel pump relay for proper functionality with feedback provided via a Light Emitting Diode (LED). This is effective if your vehicle fails to start due to a faulty fuel pump relay or the battery drains due to a fuel pump relay that is stuck in the on position. Green LED feedback can be used as evidence for dealer warranty claims against a defective fuel pump relay.
- Can be used to drain the fuel tank by powering the fuel pump while the vehicle is turned off. This capability is useful if improper fuel was dispensed into the tank or fuel tank modifications are needed.
- Fits under your closed TIPM lid.
- These cables work, period. Read our customer comments and reviews from many people who've saved thousands of dollars. If our cable doesn't work on the applicable vehicles listed on this page, we'll refund all your money.
- No special skills are required and you'll have your vehicle running again in less than 5 minutes.
- Can be used in lieu of towing your vehicle to the dealership or mechanic.
- Designed and assembled by an engineer and small business owner. Email support is normally immediate and telephone support is available Monday through Saturday.
- Continuous cables are custom made for us using our design (14 AWG wire, 20 amps).
- It reduces worry. I carry one in my car at all times.
- All cables are assembled and/or tested in our West Virginia, USA shop.
- A great solution for auto repair shops to diagnose Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/VW no start or dead battery problems..
- If you have a 2011-2013 Dodge Durango or Jeep Grand Cherokee that had an external relay installed per the recall, this cable will be ineffective because your dealer cut wires under your TIPM. Read more here regarding how to identify an external fuel relay.
What This Cable Can't Do
- This cable won't solve problems that are unrelated to your fuel pump (ie. windshield wipers, starter, lights, etc.).
- If your vehicle won't turn over and the starter will not even attempt to turn the flywheel with a properly charged battery, you likely have other issues that our cable cannot solve. See this link for problems unrelated to fuel pump relays.
Which Cable Do I Need?
The following table will help you determine which type of cable is best. We sell two different types of pre-built cables (Simple and Standard) as well as a kit that you can use to build your own. Our Standard cable adds a LED and the capability to test your fuel pump relay output and it's our most popular cable. LED feedback is nice when troubleshooting a bad fuel pump relay because you can see if/when it's providing power to your fuel pump. The LED acts just like a test light by lighting up when 12 VDC passes through it.
|Cable Version||Fuel Pump Test||Fuel Pump Relay Test||Bypass Mode||Buy This Cable If:|
|Simple (No Feedback LED)||Yes||No||Yes||You just want your car to work again|
|Standard (Includes LED and Ground Wire)||Yes||Yes||Yes||You want your car to work again and know why it failed|
|Build Your Own (Kit)||Yes||No||Yes||You'd like to solder/crimp your own add-a-circuit cables and save money to create a simple cable|
Although many have used this cable as a long-term solution for more than 3+ years, we would prefer that you use it to temporarily bypass a faulty fuel pump relay. More information is located here.
Download instructions for our Simple or Standard Test/Bypass Cable (mini-blade fuses) as shown at right. A printed color copy of these instructions is included with each order.
Tips From Other Owners
- If your fuel pump relay is stuck on and it drains your battery, simply remove fuse M25 when the vehicle is off until you can implement a solution. This is easier than disconnecting the battery. Other temporary solutions include tapping on the TIPM (fuse box) to disengage or engage the relay.
- Try starting your vehicle in neutral if nothing happens when you turn the key (or push the start button).
- If your fuel pump relay won't engage and your vehicle won't start, try your remote start. Many have reported success with this method. Remote start removes power to unnecessary functions, thereby allowing higher voltages to reach your faulty fuel relay.
- If using our TIPM test/bypass cable and you don't have a ground lug nearby for the alligator clip, you can connect it to an unpainted area on the vehicle chassis (frame).
How To Build Your Own Cable
The design is fairly easy to build and there are two versions, depending on your need. If you have questions, please email us. The simplest version consists of two 20 amp "add a circuit" mini-blade cables soldered together, along with four mini 20 amp (yellow) fuses. Make sure your add a circuit cable can handle 20 amps of current. You might be able to buy them at your local auto parts store, but many people are reporting they can only find the 10 amp version which could cause the wire to overheat since most fuel pumps require 9-10 amps. With this design, you're taking power from fuse slot M7 (rear cigarette lighter) or the newer M37 and providing it to fuse slot M25 (fuel pump). This version will keep your vehicle on the road by bypassing a defective fuel pump relay, and allow you to test your fuel pump. Be sure to add some heat shrink or electrical tape to the soldered connection between the two add-a-circuit cables. Directions on how to bypass a defective fuel pump relay and test your fuel pump are listed below.
A more complex version adds a 12 VDC green LED and ground wire alligator clip, permitting detailed testing of the fuel pump relay and fuel pump. The wiring diagram below shows how they are soldered together. With this assembly, you'll be able to use the LED to see if the fuel pump relay or fuel pump is bad. Directions on how to test your fuel pump relay, fuel pump, and how to bypass a defective fuel pump relay are listed below.
How We Developed This Cable
This design came to life after my 2011 Dodge Durango Crew started to experience starting problems shortly after the warranty expired in 2014. My vehicle would intermittently turn over, but never start due to a lack of fuel. This normally happened in the morning, when the vehicle was cold. Repeated attempts to start the vehicle were successful for awhile, but eventually it wouldn't start at all. After researching the problem via the internet, I found numerous complaints and even a class action lawsuit filed against Dodge for defective TIPMs. Through analysis and testing (I'm an engineer), I was eventually able to determine that my TIPM-mounted fuel pump relay was faulty and repair it myself.
Before the TIPM test/bypass cable was developed, I decided to take my Durango to the dealer and see if they could narrow down the problem since this vehicle has experienced similar problems throughout its life. Since my starting problem was intermittent (most failures occur when the car has been sitting for awhile), I knew it might be difficult to get it to fail at the dealership. All day long, the vehicle started up properly at the service department and I was told there was no problem. As luck would have it, the vehicle failed to start just as I tried to leave the dealership and I was able to prove there was indeed a problem. Further investigation by the dealer narrowed it down to a TIPM or fuel pump. Since my Durango was out of warranty, I was told a new TIPM was around $1100 (assuming that was indeed the problem). It was only a few months out of warranty, which didn't make me very happy. After several phone calls with Dodge to complain (800-992-1977), I was offered $500 toward a new TIPM, which left me paying at least $600 out of pocket. So I decided it was time to tear the TIPM apart and solve the problem myself.
This particular TIPM is not designed to be serviced by Dodge, let alone a car owner like myself. It is not made to come apart easy and special tools and skills are required to disassemble it without causing damage. After spending hours getting it broken down to the circuit board level where I could identify the fuel pump relay, I found the contacts contained large amounts of carbon deposits and a weak spring, thereby causing occasional situations where the relay failed to power the fuel pump. This observation was later verified by my TIPM bypass/testing device, which earlier in the day was able to show via an LED that the fuel pump relay clicked on and off even when I was able to start the vehicle.
After testing the relay with the application of 12 VDC and a multimeter for continuity, I determined that it was indeed the problem. It's amazing how much pain a $9.00 relay can cause. We've also seen countless fuel pump relays that are welded closed, which continue to pump fuel until the battery is dead (long after the vehicle is turned off). Replacement relays were difficult to find and the only version that matched would have taken around a month to arrive from China, but I was eventually able to find a suitable domestic replacement. Until the part arrived, I still needed to drive my Durango. So, analyzing the inner workings of the TIPM allowed me to create a special testing/bypass device that was capable of testing my fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and bypassing the defective fuel pump relay so I could stay on the road until I could repair the TIPM with a new fuel pump relay. All it takes is a connection of two 20A add-a-circuit cables in your TIPM fusebox. I was able to craft this fix by studying TIPM wiring diagrams along with hours of testing. I felt this wire assembly could be helpful to others, so I decided to release my design for anyone to build their own. After a single post on a Dodge forum, I was quickly inundated with phone calls and orders for this cable assembly. We now build TIPM cables with countless emails from happy customers keeping us going. No special skills are required to use this cable and you can diagnose your problem in less than 5 minutes. After your purchase, if you decide to upgrade to a TIPM repair or TIPM Plug-In Relay System as a long-term solution, contact us for discounts up the full cost of the cable.
How To Test The LED and Ground Connection (Standard Cable Only)
- A proper ground connection and functioning green LED is critical for accurate testing.
- Turn vehicle off and open your hood.
- Connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection. Chassis ground is another name for the bare metal of the vehicle's frame.
- Remove the existing 20A fuse in fuse slot M7. Verify that M7 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert one end of the test/bypass cable into the RIGHT slots of the M7 fuse slot. Ensure the opposite end of the cable doesn't touch anything. The green LED should light up. If not lit, confirm a proper alligator clip ground connection to bare metal.
NOTE: You can also test the LED using a 9 VDC battery. Attach the alligator clip to (-) and any cable terminal to (+).
How To Test Your Fuel Pump Relay (Standard Cable Only
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 20A fuel pump fuse M25. Verify that M25 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the M25 slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below.
- Connect the alligator to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection. DO NOT connect the alligator clip to the positive 12 VDC terminal hex nut located in the upper left corner of your TIPM.
- If the green LED immediately lights up, your fuel pump relay is stuck in the "on" position and will eventually drain your battery. You can likely hear the fuel pump motor (located near your gas tank) if in a quiet environment. Use your cable in bypass mode (see below) to keep your vehicle on the road and prevent battery drainage. Just make sure to remove the lower 20A fuse on the M25 end of the cable, per the instructions.
- If the green LED is not lit, which is normal, have someone attempt to start your vehicle. Watch the green LED.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED remains continuously lit, everything is functioning properly at this point in time. Fuel pump relays fail intermittently, so you may want to test again at a time of day that failure is common.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED flickers on and off, your fuel pump relay is going bad. Our test vehicle experienced this type of flickering on and off for approximately 30-60 seconds when first started, but the fuel pump was still able to deliver enough fuel to not starve the engine. After several minutes, the fuel pump relay would work appropriately and the green LED would remain lit. History shows this problem will become worse and you're likely in the early stages of fuel pump relay failure.
- If the vehicle does not start and the green LED never lights up, your fuel pump relay is faulty. See the fuel pump relay bypass section below to start your vehicle.
- If the vehicle starts and the green LED is not illuminated, make sure you've connected the alligator clip to chassis ground
How To Test Your Fuel Pump (Simple or Standard Cables)
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 20A fuel pump fuse M25. Verify that M25 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the M25 fuse slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below if using a Standard Cable with LED.
- Remove the existing 20A fuse in fuse slot M7. Verify that M7 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert the free end of your test/bypass cable into the RIGHT slots of the M7 fuse slot. The M7 fuse slot consists of three terminals (the far right terminals provide 12VDC when the vehicle is on or off).
- If your fuel pump is working properly, you'll hear the fuel pump motor (located near your gas tank) if in a quiet environment.
- (Standard Cables only) Connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection and you should see the green LED light up, indicating that 12 VDC is being provided to the fuel pump. If you see the green LED but don't hear the fuel pump, you may have a bad fuel pump. If you do NOT see a green LED, but do hear the fuel pump, you likely need to check your alligator clip ground connection.
How To Bypass A Defective Fuel Pump Relay And Stay On The Road (Simple or Standard Cables - New M37 Connection)
- Turn vehicle off.
- Remove the lower 20 amp yellow fuses on both ends of the cable. These are the slots closest to the two terminals that plug into your fuse box.
- Remove the 10 amp red fuse from your M37 fuse slot and insert it into one of the open (lower) fuse slots in the TIPM cable. Configure your TIPM cable (Simple or Standard versions) per the below image. Now insert the end of the cable with the 10 amp red fuse into M37. Lift your J13 Ignition Off Draw (IOD) white bezel fuse upward, if needed, to access M37. The IOD fuse lifts up and down approximately 1/2". Push the IOD fuse back down when done.
- Insert the free end of your cable into M25. This end of the cable will have only ONE 20 amp yellow fuse in the top slot. Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable.
- Start vehicle
- (Standard Cables only) Optionally connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection in order illuminate the LED when 12 VDC power is sent to the fuel pump. You'll see the green LED light up, indicating that alternate power from the run/start circuit is now powering your fuel pump. Disconnect the black ground wire, LED, and alligator clip cable assembly by pulling on both ends of the white plastic disconnects. Save this part, perhaps in your glove box, for possible future use.
- You can start, drive, and turn off your vehicle as you normally do. Your test/bypass cable is intended as a temporary solution until you can implement a permanent fix, although many have used this part for 2-3 years.
- This new bypass mode cable connection has many advantages over the older M7 left slot method.
How To Bypass A Defective Fuel Pump Relay And Stay On The Road (Simple or Standard Cables - Old M7 Method)
- We highly recommend that you use the newer M37 cable connection method shown above, but the older M7 left slot method shown below will bypass a faulty fuel relay.
- Turn vehicle off
- Open hood and remove 20A fuel pump fuse M25. Verify that M25 is your fuel pump slot.
- Insert one end of your test/bypass cable into the M25 slot of your fuse box, with orientation per the image below if using a Standard Cable with LED.
- Remove the existing 20A fuse in fuse slot M7. Verify that M7 is your power adapter (cigarette lighter).
- Insert the free end of your test/bypass cable into the LEFT slots of the M7 fuse slot. The M7 fuse slot consists of three terminals (the far left terminals provide 12VDC power ONLY when the key is on). This connection provides alternate power directly to the fuel pump, thereby bypassing the defective fuel pump relay.
- Start vehicle
- (Standard Cables only) Optionally connect the alligator clip to the battery's negative terminal, a ground lug, or chassis ground connection in order illuminate the LED when 12 VDC power is sent to the fuel pump. You'll see the green LED light up, indicating that alternate power from the power adapter (cigarette lighter) circuit is now powering your fuel pump if the original faulty fuel pump relay cannot. Disconnect the black ground wire, LED, and alligator clip cable assembly by pulling on both ends of the white plastic disconnects. Save this part, perhaps in your glove box, for possible future use.
- You can start, drive, and turn off your vehicle as you normally do. Your test/bypass cable is intended as a temporary solution until you can implement a permanent fix. Due to the large number of vehicle types with fuel pump relay problems, it is unknown if any auto shut down features are affected during a crash. Use this cable in bypass mode at your own risk.
- You can continue to plug low power devices (cell phone, iPad, etc.) into the cigarette lighter, but avoid high current devices.
- If you experience problems starting your vehicle, try cycling the key from OFF to ACC to RUN and then put your foot on the brake and start the vehicle. Some TIPMs appear to conserve power by disabling the left slots of the M7 circuit during the starting process. Less than 1% have reported this issue while in bypass mode. Bypass mode powers your fuel pump in ACC and RUN modes only, so your fuel pump will be off when the vehicle is turned off. Remote start may not work with this cable.
- If your fuel pump relay has been or becomes stuck in the ON position when the vehicle is off, which can drain your battery, please remove the lower 20A fuse on the M25 end of the cable This action will completely disconnect the faulty fuel pump relay from all active circuitry and prevent future battery drainage. Alternate bypass power will still be permitted to travel from the M7 fuse slot through the cable to M25 and to your fuel pump. Then start the vehicle.
- For those using this outdated bypass connection method from M7 left slots to M25 rather than the newer M37 to M25 connection, please note the following limitations:
- No remote start on some vehicles due to the TIPM disabling the rear cigarette lighter (M7) used to power the fuel pump relay (M25) in bypass mode.
- In bypass mode, it is unknown how it will affect safety mechanisms that shut off power to your faulty fuel pump relay during a crash. However, all faulty fuel pump relays are currently capable of becoming stuck in the on position, making this limitation a moot point. More details are available here.
- Although rare, in extremely cold weather or with low battery voltages, some TIPMs may disable power to the M7 circuit used by the TIPM cable. More info here.
NOTE: Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable, especially near the fuses.
Frequently Asked Questions
1) How fast do you ship? My vehicle will not start.
Answer: 99% of all orders will ship the same day. Further details are available on our Shipping and Deliveries information page.
2) How long can I drive with the cable? Is it a permanent solution?
Answer: Many people have used our cables for extended periods of time (3-4 years) without issue and they're our most popular fuel pump relay solution. Unlike our patented long term solutions such as TIPM Plug-In Relay Systems, TIPM cables are considered short term solutions. While our TIPM cables are custom made at the factory per our specifications, we can't change some aspects of the design such as the terminal pin thickness in order to permit them to last a lifetime. We always suggest you begin with a TIPM test/bypass cable to find the problem and then upgrade to a TIPM Plug-In Relay System or TIPM repair when convenient as many find they are better long-term options. We'll refund the full cost of any TIPM cable purchase when you upgrade to a TIPM repair or give you 10% off a TIPM Plug-In Relay System. Simply contact us for details. No matter what fix you decide to use, a TIPM cable is an inexpensive tool to diagnose problems with your vehicle and bypass a fuel relay problem, likely making it one of the most cost-effective fixes to solve fuel relay problems. Thousands of people around the world are currently driving with our TIPM cables and they will last for many years.
3) Will your cable provide 12 VDC to the fuel pump when the vehicle is off?
Answer: No. When using our bypass cable, power is only delivered to the fuel pump when in the run position or while the vehicle is starting/running. Your fuel pump will not be powered on when the vehicle is turned off.
4) What percentage of people have a no start condition with their fuel pump relay compared to those who have their fuel pump stuck on when the vehicle is off?
Answer: Based on the thousands of phone calls we've received since August 2014, we would guess that 65% have a fuel pump relay that won't engage (no start), 20% have a fuel pump relay that is stuck on (draining their battery), and 10% have a combination of both. 5% experience stalling while driving. It's not uncommon for relay failures to switch from one failure mode to another.
5) My battery keeps draining. How can I temporarily fix my fuel pump relay "stuck on" situation without using your TIPM cable?
Answer: Turn the vehicle off, go the rear of the vehicle near the fuel tank, and listen for pumping noises to see if fuel pump is still on. If so, remove fuse M25 (labeled "fuel pump") only when your vehicle is off, which will prevent power being delivered to the fuel pump. You can also install our bypass cable using the M37 to M25 connection method to resolve this problem.
6) Is the TIPM bypass cable still effective if the external fuel pump relay recall has been added by my dealer?
Answer: No. Our TIPM test/bypass cable will not work in this scenario (nor will it normally be needed) because the faulty fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse (M25) has been permanently removed from the circuit. The new external relay has its own fuse. The recall for 2011-2013 Dodge Durangos and Jeep Grand Cherokees only involves cutting numerous fuel pump wires leading in/out of the TIPM, thereby disconnecting the existing fuel pump relay circuit from the fuel pump. If you continue to have problems with your new external fuel pump relay, read more here. To identify if you have an external relay installed, go here.
7) Are any safety mechanisms affected by faulty fuel pump relays or bypass cables?
Answer: No. If using the new M37 to M25 connection method, no safety mechanisms are affected by using a TIPM cable.
8) When using the older M7 left slot to M25 bypass mode connection, my car only starts on the second attempt or won't start in cold weather. Is this normal?
Answer: It's rare, but some TIPMs won't power on the M7 circuit during the starting process. We've performed some testing/research to determine that it's likely attributable to the TIPM cutting off all unnecessary power draw during the starting process in cold weather or with lower battery voltages. Please use the newer configuration that uses the M37 fuse slot in bypass mode, which will resolve this problem.
With no power to M7 left slots, the TIPM cable can't deliver power to the fuel pump via the M25 fuse slot. There are some workarounds: (1) Cycle your key or start button to ACC and RUN mode, then start the vehicle; (2) In extreme cold weather, move the TIPM cable from the left slots of M7 to the right slots. Start the vehicle and then move the cable back to the left slots of M7. Keep in mind that plugging into the right slots of M7 forces the fuel pump to remain on all the time, so you'll need to return it to the left slots while the vehicle is running or after driving. This isn't an issue with our cable, rather it's how the TIPM handles cold weather starting.
Low battery voltages may be due to your faulty relay being "stuck on", which powers your fuel pump when the vehicle is off until it partially or completely drains your battery. It's complicated, but some faulty fuel relays fail in different ways. They may fail early on by simply not allowing power to pass through the M25 fuse and on to the fuel pump. Then they can switch to being "stuck on", which keeps your fuel pump running when the vehicle is off. You'll need to remove the lower yellow 20 amp fuse on the M25 end of our cable to completely disconnect the faulty relay from the fuel pump circuit and prevent battery drainage. The next time you try to start it and it fails, hook up the alligator clip to ground and watch the green light if you have the LED version of our cable. If the green light comes on when you turn the key to ACC, but then goes out only during the starter cranking process, your battery voltage is likely low. Charge your battery and/or make sure the lower fuse on the M25 end of our cable is removed. If your fuel pump is receiving power during the starting process but still fails to start, you might: (1) Have a faulty fuel pump (please use our cable to test your fuel pump), (2) Have no gas in the vehicle, or (3) Have a faulty crankshaft sensor or other problem that is outside of our knowledge base. Keep in mind that our TIPM cables have always been advertised as temporary solutions. Permanent solutions are available through us and we offer great discounts to those who've purchased our TIPM cables.
9) With the cable using power from the M37 fuse slot, will this affect other items in my vehicle?
Answer: No. The M37 fuse slot consumes less than 10 amps out of the 35 available amps provided via the run/start grey Omron plug-in relay. Since fuel pumps consume less than 10 amps, you're only using 20 of the 35 available amps. If you study in inside of a TIPM and the six circuit boards, you'll notice the M37 fuse slot permits the full 35 amp load to be distributed to the first leg of the M37 fuse slot where it then divides, providing power to the TIPM cable and all items downstream of the M37 fuse. In order to protect the 10 amp circuitry downstream of the M37 fuse slot, we require you to remove your 10 amp red M37 fuse and insert it into the TIPM cable (see instructions for details).
10) Why won't your cable work on my 2007-2010 Ram truck? What does the typical fuel pump circuit look like that permits the bypass/test cable to work?
Answer: Most vehicles will allow our TIPM bypass/test cable to work, but we have not been able to test every vehicle. For the cable to work properly, the order of components must be: +12 VDC ---> Fuel Pump Relay ---> Fuse Slot ---> Fuel Pump. If the fuel pump relay is not located before the fuse slot, as is the case with many 2010 and older Dodge Ram trucks, our TIPM bypass/test cable won't work. If your test light or multimeter can detect 12 VDC on the fuel pump fuse slot when the vehicle is off, chances are our TIPM bypass/test cables won't work as your fuel relay comes after the fuse slot (the only exception being a "stuck on" fuel relay that is often remedied with a swift smack to the side of the TIPM). Since a fuel pump relay failure often means no power at the fuse or pump when the vehicle is starting or running, the arrangement of the circuit shown below benefits us since we can inject +12 VDC power via a TIPM test/bypass cable into the 20 amp fuse slot to power the fuel pump. For details, see our wiring diagrams section.
If you own a 2007-2010 Ram truck, we can only recommend a used TIPM at this time since none of our products will work and a TIPM repair is very difficult due to surface mount relays that are very close to each other.
11) Will my remote start still work after installing the TIPM cable?
Answer: Yes. If using the new M37 to M25 connection method, your remote start will function normally.
12) My 2012 Caravan is having problems starting, sometimes a grinding sound and sometimes it starts fine. Would the fuel pump relay cause this issue?
Answer: Yes, it's possible. Fuel pump relays often fail by clicking on and off very fast. Sometimes they click on fast enough to stay running and sometimes not. When your vehicle detects that is has "started", it disengages the starter solenoid. If the fuel relay is still clicking on/off just enough to keep it running, but not fast enough for to detect the vehicle is running, the solenoid can stay engaged in the flywheel, creating the grinding sound. It sounds like this because it is indeed slowly grinding the teeth off your flywheel and solenoid.
13) My car still won't start with the TIPM test/bypass cable installed. What might cause this?
Answer: The following are possible causes for this situation while using our cable:
- TIPM test/bypass cable isn't hooked up to the proper fuse slots. It must be connected between M37 and M25.
- Check TIPM test/bypass cable fuses. Some people accidentally touch our cable to ground while plugged in to the TIPM, which may blow a fuse.
- Make sure the top fuses on each end of our TIPM test/bypass cable are installed. Top fuses permit power to flow from one end of the cable (M37) to the other (M25). Bottom fuses allow the original fuse slot to function properly.
- Have you checked your fuel pump using the TIPM test/bypass cable to see if it's working? A fuel pump pressure test is something else to keep in mind if all else fails.
- Do you have gas in the vehicle? Is your fuel gauge working properly?
- Make sure you don't already have an external relay installed. If you do, change the external relay.
- Check/replace your camshaft and/or crankshaft sensors. There are dozens of things that can prevent a vehicle from starting, beyond the fuel pump relay issue that our cable was designed to solve.
14) My vehicle is experiencing problems since installing the cable. Is the cable at fault?
Answer: No. With thousands of cables in use worldwide, we know exactly how our cables interact with TIPMs. Our TIPM bypass/test cables are nothing more than jumper cables that permit electricity to move between two points. Instead of using the electricity flowing through a faulty fuel pump relay to power your fuel pump, we use electricity from another source (the M37 run/start fuse slot). Your faulty fuel pump relay and the run/start fuse slot both use the same 12 VDC source inside the TIPM. When using the cable, your run/start fuse slot doesn't know or care that it's actually powering the fuel pump. Our TIPM bypass/test cables won't cause any warning lights, check engine lights, alternator, starter, or air conditioning problems. Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/VW vehicles and their TIPMs are well known for electrical problems in each of these items.
If you do get a "check engine" warning light, we always suggest you obtain an OBDII scanner and plug into your OBDII port to identify the particular code. This will tell you what the problem is. Or you can often take your vehicle to a local auto parts store where many of them will read the code for free.
15) Why couldn't my dealer or mechanic figure out that the fuel pump relay was faulty?
Answer: It's VERY common for dealers or mechanics to improperly diagnose fuel pump relay problems. The most common misdiagnosis is a faulty fuel pump, which will cost you around $600. Reasons for improperly diagnosing fuel pump relay problems include: Relay failures are often intermittent, selling you a TIPM at $1200 is more profitable, faulty relays won't normally result in vehicle faults/codes, and many people don't understand vehicle electrical systems, TIPMs are not a user or dealer serviceable part (i.e. they're not allowed to work on the parts inside), and they don't know how to test fuel pump relays. Fortunately, fuel pump relays are our specialty and we can often diagnose problems over the phone or via email.
16) Nothing happens when I turn the key. Is the cable at fault?
Answer: If you're turning the key and nothing happens, then you likely have a starter issue, dead battery, bad alternator, or wiring problem. This type of problem is not related to the fuel pump relay, nor does it have anything to with our cable. Our cable simply delivers power to the fuel pump. If your vehicle is unable to power the starter to rotate the flywheel, then you'll want to focus on the solutions listed below.
Corroded battery terminals can cause the inability for the battery to deliver 12 VDC to the starter. A faulty alternator can prevent the battery from being charged properly, resulting in a dead battery. Note that many 2011 vehicles were recalled for bad alternators. You may want to check to see if yours was on the recall list. Check your starter plug-in relay that is locate next to your fuses on top of the TIPM. Also, modern TIPMs control the ability of the alternator to deliver current to charge the battery when driving. Some of our customers had to replace their TIPM with a used TIPM.
17) Will the TIPM cable still work if my vehicle doesn't have a rear cigarette lighter?
Answer: Yes. Regardless of the presence of a rear cigarette lighter (power adapter) for the M7 circuit used by the cable, the infrastructure in the TIPM-7 fuse box is still there to accommodate fuel pump testing with our cable. This situation mainly applies to 2011-2012 Dodge Ram owners. The cable still works perfectly on these vehicles with the M7 slot providing either full-time or key-on power, as desired, depending on the cable configuration you desire.
18) When is power provided to the fuel pump when using the TIPM cable?
Answer: TIPM cables will provide power to your fuel pump in a nearly identical manner as the original fuel pump relay. Your fuel pump will only be powered on in the run position and during staring/running of the vehicle. Once you turn off the key, the fuel pump will shut off. The only difference is the original fuel pump relay will temporarily turn on the fuel pump (prime for 2 seconds) while a TIPM cable will continuously power the pump if you cycle your start button or key to the run position.
19) Can I use a fuse slot other than M7 with the cable to power the fuel pump, enable remote start, and resolve cold weather starting issues?
Answer: Yes. M37 is a fuse slot that receives the "run/start" signal and it contains a 10 amp red fuse. We initially eliminated the use of M37 years ago because the fuel pump requires a 20 amp circuit, but understanding how the six circuit boards inside the TIPM are connected allowed us to research it further. Upstream of M37 is a high amp 12 VDC source that is fed through a grey Omron plug-in relay (run/start signal) before reaching the 10 amp red fuse in M37. Our cable can pull the 9 amps required for the fuel pump from this fuse slot. M37 will enable remote start, fuel pump shutoff during a crash, resolve any cold weather M7 problems, and other items that are currently limitations with some M7 slots. To use M37 instead of M7 left slots while in bypass mode (assuming the cable is currently installed), do the following:
1) Remove the TIPM cable from your vehicle.
2) Remove the lower 20 amp yellow fuses on both ends of the cable. These are the slots closest to the two terminals that plug into your fuse box.
3) Insert a 20 amp yellow fuse into your M7 left slot so your cigarette lighter (power adapter) will work.
4) Remove the 10 amp red fuse from your M37 fuse slot and insert it into one of the open (lower) fuse slots in the TIPM cable. If you have a Standard cable with LED, configure it per the below image. Now insert the end of the cable with the 10 amp red fuse into M37. Lift your J13 Ignition Off Draw (IOD) white bezel fuse upward if needed to access M37. The IOD fuse lifts up and down about 1/2". Make sure you push it back down when done.
5) Insert the free end of the cable into M25. This end of the cable will only have ONE 20 amp yellow fuse in the top slot. Make sure there are no sharp bends in the cable.
NOTE: If you fail to remove the lower fuse in the M25 end of the cable AND you have a "stuck on" faulty fuel relay inside your TIPM, your vehicle may continue to run after turning off the key. This is due to the faulty fuel relay backfeeding the run/start signal via M37 and feeding the fuel pump via M25.
20) My remote start isn't working or the vehicle shuts down after a few seconds when using remote start. What causes this?
Answer: Our TIPM cables work perfectly with remote start and we often find that these types of problems are the result of the vehicle disabling remote start capabilities before or after the starting process. Most vehicles will disable remote start if any of the following conditions are not met:
- Check engine light not illuminated
- Shift lever in PARK
- Doors closed
- Hood closed
- HAZARD switch off
- BRAKE switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed)
- Ignition key removed from ignition switch
- Battery at an acceptable charge level
- Remote keyless entry PANIC button not pressed
- Fuel meets minimum requirement
The engine can be started two consecutive times (two 15-minute cycles) with the remote keyless entry transmitter. However, the ignition switch must be cycled to the ON/RUN position before you can repeat the start sequence for a third cycle. With a TIPM cable in place, remote start problems are normally attributable to one or more of the items listed above if you can start your vehicle with a key or pushbutton, but not with the keyfob.
21) One end of my TIPM cable has melted. What causes this?
Answer: Your fuse slot was likely damaged prior to installing the cable. We've seen this before where customers insert fuse taps or widen the fuse terminals in their TIPM due to repeated use. This creates a hot spot due to the fuse terminals not touching the TIPM cable with enough surface area. The 9 amps flowing to your fuel pump requires a fuse or TIPM cable to be tight and secure. The solution is to remove all fuses/relays and the top of your TIPM, then crimp the terminals back together.
22) After turning the key off, my vehicle continues to run. Why?
Answer: You forgot to remove the lower 20 amp yellow fuse on the M25 end of your cable, per our instructions. In this situation, you likely have a fuel pump relay that is stuck-on, draining your battery. By failing to configure your cable properly, the stuck-on relay is backfeeding the run/start circuit M37, keeping the vehicle running when you turn it off. Please configure your cable as shown below.
Below are customer comments sent via email. Feel free to check out all the impartial positive comments on our YouTube video.
-Jason, I just wanted to personally THANK YOU for developing/inventing the bypass cables which I purchased about a 10 days or so ago. As anyone knows it really sucks to be without transportation but what even sucks more is the fact that Chrysler Corp. doesn’t even acknowledge the fact that they have thousands of vehicles on the road which are experiencing the exact same problems like I had. I feel so lucky that I stumbled upon you site by accident which I’m sure saved me thousands of dollars and time. We live in Hawaii on the Big Island and the way things are here you sometimes think you are living in a third world country. Meaning parts are never in stock, prices on everything including parts and labor are probably25-30% higher than on the mainland. I’m sure my local Dodge Dealership would have treated me like other customers in other states and first replaced the fuel pump then the TIPM which of course would not been in stock. Of course during the entire time my car sat at the dealership I would have been forced to rent a car since that was our only other vehicle. I’ll bet that alone would have cost well over $3000.00.Again, thank you Jason for doing what you do. I my case, within 10 min. Of receiving my cables in the mail my van was up and running. (2012 Dodge Grand Caravan) - April 6, 2018
-I just wanted say thank you and tell you you are a genius this tips bypass/test cable is a godsend thank you so much for taking the time to figure this out thank you again this product is amazing - April 1, 2018
-Had to drop a line to tell you I am so pleased I found your site on the internet concerning my 2011 Dodge Ram. You have saved me a lot of time and money that the dealers were ready to take from me. Your instructions and video were precise and to the point. I bought the cable with the LED and installed semi-permatently until I can order your Plug-in Fuel Pump Power Bypass System for a permanent fix. Thanks again for getting me back on the road. -January 24, 2018
-I just wanted to say thank you for your awesome, simple product! Our Grand Caravan started getting the dreaded TIPM issue. My wife was stranded numerous times last week with a car that wouldn't start. Thanks to your product, the car starts up Everytime now. Will keep this plugged up until we can get the problem fixed permanently. -December 3, 2017
- JUST A NOTE GOT THE CABLE. VAN STARTED NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. GREAT SAVINGS. DEALER WANTED NEW PUMP & NEW COMPUTER BOX. THANKS AGAIN. -December 1, 2017
- Thanks for your Youtube video and bypass cable with LED. My 2011 Ram 1500 has the faulty fuel pump relay. Fortunately, mine died in my driveway. It gave no indication it was about to go out. It would crank, but would not start. Had the problem diagnosed and bypassed in less than 10 minutes. I spoke with the local Chrysler dealer. They wanted $120 to diagnose the problem, $978 for a new TIPM and was told it would require 3 hours labor!! As soon as I had the bypass cable installed, it started with no hesitation. I’ve referred family members to your website so they can order a bypass cable for their Chrysler vehicles with similar TIPMs just in case they encounter the same problem. It’s an inexpensive insurance policy. You saved me a bunch. Thanks again! -October 22, 2017. Vertical Visions comment: We can remove and install a new TIPM in your vehicle in less than 10 minutes.
- I want to give you a big thank you for providing your information and intelligence!! I made my own tipm bypass from your wiring diagram and it worked! Thank you again from the bottom of my heart for saving me at least 1000 dollars! Sincerely, a father of 3 school age kids, and one worried wife! -September 28, 2017
-I just would like to say thank you. I am an asst. chief from a volunteer fire department and I use my vehical a lot to answer calls. I've been going crazy with the no start issues and never know if I am going to be able to start the truck to get to the scene on a timely fashion. Your bypass works great and helped me figure out what my problem is. I drive a 2011 ram 1500. So once again I would like to thank you so much. -August 24, 2017
-I just received your test/bypass cable in the mail. I ordered it after googling for a day or two trying to diagnose (with no luck) my wife’s 2011 grand caravan. Turned out to be the fuel pump relay, & I was able to diagnose it within a matter of minutes. Thank you for sharing this tool with the rest of us, it truly is awesome! -August 15, 2017
-You are a genius! You are a saint! Just installed the cable, my van is now purring in the drive way after sitting dead for a week. You don't know how thankful I am for you for figuring this out and making a product that helps so many of us out. We just spent $5k on a transmission. The thought of another $1k+ to fix this problem was almost too much to bear. As soon as I'm done celebrating, I'll order the circuit board. -August 7, 2017
-Just like to say you THANK YOU, you got me back on the road. Fast response, fast processing, the whole works. Thanks again. -August 3, 2017
-After replacing spark plugs and wires and installing a brand new file pump my truck still wouldn't start, and when it did it threw codes for multiple misfires. Your test/bypass cable was my last option before i threw in the towel and took it in, which i really could not afford. Needless to say, the cable worked. She started right up after install and is running great. At 144239 miles I'm not sorry i replaced the plugs and pump, but thank you for stepping in with a solution when Chrysler refuses to act honorably towards it's loyal customers. -August 1, 2017
-I installed the new part on my wife's 2011 Chrysler T&C and your instructions were perfect. Thanks for engineering such a great product, starts every time. -June 30, 2017
-I can not begin to thank you enough for this incredible product. I brought my car (2011 Dodge Grand Caravan) to my mechanic last week and he told me I needed a fuel pump. I had him replace it at $675. My car still wasn’t starting, so it was then towed to a Dodge dealership where I paid $225 in diagnostics. I was told my TIPM needed to be replaced at an additional cost of $1100. I was floored, and broke at this point, so I had my car towed home. I just bought this car back in March, and it is the only car I own that my family of 6 will fit in. I was planning on driving to Florida from Boston to visit my dad in July and now my vacation was all but cancelled. I called my dad to break the news, and he told me to call a friend of ours and tell him about the car to see if he knew anyone else who could fix it cheaper. After explaining the situation to my friend, he emailed me about an hour later with your video. I ordered the part immediately and got it first thing this morning in my mail. It worked. Like a charm. My only regret is not seeing this video before spending all this money needlessly on a fuel pump and a diagnostic. You not only saved me $1100, but this simple yet amazing part saved a family vacation, which not only includes me and my kids, but also two cousins and a friend who already purchased plane tickets to meet us in Florida. I am a stay at home mother of 4 and my husband is in sales and drives for Uber for extra money. Every single penny in this house counts. I have to say, that $32 I spent on the part and shipping was some of the best money I have ever spent in my life. I honestly can not thank you enough for not only posting that video, but giving consumers a way to not be held over a barrel by mechanics and dealerships. You are a hero in our house. -June 3, 2017
-Just ordered this to keep in glove box for my wife's 2014 Town and Country, as a precaution, since this is such a common failure and she travels a lot. I ordered it on a Saturday late morning, around 11AM, expecting it would not ship until Monday, and see it maybe Wednesday. Very surprised when it was in my hand Monday! I am an owner of an auto repair shop, so I am used to diagnosing problems, and using expensive tools/equipment, and this is as simple as it gets, and appears well made. I could have made it myself, but for the little cost, convenience, and knowing that if my wife is stranded, she will have clear instructions, AND a phone number to reach an actual person familiar with THIS REPAIR, to help. That means a lot Thank you. -May 22, 2017
-Hey buddy, it took me about 90 seconds to install the wire and I have driven it all day wit